Like all cities in 1945 here in Germany, Nürnberg, too, was incredibly devastated by the war. However, unlike in Leipzig, the last city we were in, and others in East Germany, Nürnberg was able to beautifully restore most of its original-self, thanks in part to being in West Germany.
We had another relatively easy trip from Leipzig via the railway. It took just over three hours. Once we got here we had a look around the center of the city, including Hauptmarkt, which is the name of the city's center square. Many restaurants, bars, and shops line the streets of Nürnberg. As well, there is a very large castle just up from Hauptmarkt on a hill. The entire old part of town is surrounded by a moat (no longer filled with water, of course).
Did I say there was an election coming up here? Marxist-Leninist Party? Pretty surprising to have such a party, especially regarding this country's history. And then there's the Pirate Party...
The oddest fountain I have ever seen. The water is coming out of everyone's breasts!
From inside Nürnberg
A view from the castle.
But, today after breakfast we got a ride from Dominique, who wasn't really a tour guide, but rather a driver who was to get us from point A to point B. He showed us the castle, but it was evident that we weren't all that interested in it (and he didn't know a whole lot about it). Of course, since we were in Nürnberg there were other sites here that we really wanted to see.
Not all that far away is the Zeppelin field where Adolf Hitler and the Nazis had there most elaborate and significant rallies. There were more than just one rally, of course. Young men, who were fit for duty would pack on to trains from all over Germany to come and participate in these massive demonstrations. Hundreds of Aryan men would line up in strict unison and hear what their Fuhrer would have to say.
These demonstrations, of course, were massively transmitted all over Germany. I have personally watched "Triumph of the Will," which is a propagandistic film that was used by the Nazi leadership to show the cultish personality of Hitler and what his intentions were for his nation. Of course it was a propaganda film and so it was pretty heavy on the cult aspects of Hitler and views him very positively. Glimpses of footage of this film and how it was made was shown in the documentation center we saw today.
As for the massive rally grounds, that I had seen so many times before in classes, well..... Let us just say that it has seen better days. The big stage in which we remember the dictator standing on and saluting the crowd, no longer resembles the powerful structure it once was. It is not behind a red rope and there are no signs not to touch. No, in fact, it still bizarrely serves as bleachers for spectators to watch stock car races, which race down the road where once thousands of people watched the Fuhrer. Sports fields and stadiums, a soccer one and a hockey one, are seen in the background. No longer is it a cement platform where hundreds of thousands once stood to salute the Fuhrer. This space is now used for everyday life--even a parking lot... In fact, in a short film clip prior to entering the museum, there were skateboarders who used the rally grounds as a skateboard park. Tennis players would use the large walls on the backside of the Nazi rally to hit balls. Here are some images.
Must be interesting debates about whether or not to maintain this "symbol" of National Socialism. Right now, the only signs are to warn you "Enter at your own risk." Hmmm...
Thats me where Hitler once stood. Picture the flags, lights and people. Interesting that there are really no signs telling anything about what this is.
Mom, where Hitler once stood. Looks a little dilapidated?
Area now used as a race track and other sporting events (standing where Hitler once made his biggest rally speeches) People used to stand as far back as the trees in the background
View of Ice rink from the "Nazi Stage"
Nürnberg's soccer stadium seen from the Nazi rally grounds
Not a great image, but this is what it once looked like!
The documentation center was interesting. Not much of course was original information that I hadn't heard about before. But nonetheless, it was interesting to listen to some of the narratives and information that the documentation center had to offer.
One interesting video of of two elderly women recalling the number of times they had seen Hitler. They laughed and giggled about their "competition." Strange.
Then there were many original artifacts from the trial, including the front page of the newspaper with the war criminals' sentences.
Sometime in the mid-to-late 1930s, Hitler had a plan to set up a "kongresshalle," which would sit massive numbers of people and could be used for huge events. Building on this got started, but the war had interrupted the finishing touches of the massive space. So it was left unfinished, and of course, we now know that they were never able to actually complete this extravagant project. Needless to say, this building was supposed to resemble the Colosseum in Rome. Hitler had plans to make Germany just like the Roman Empire. He clearly had a fondness for the Romans. Luckily for us, none of this came to fruition.
What it is now.
What it was supposed to be.
Finally, we ended today's tour with the site of the Nuremberg trials. Today, this building is still being used as a court house. They advise people who want a tour that Courtroom 600 where the Nazis had been tried is still used for court proceedings and then you can't view that area. Luckily for us, we got to sit in the same room as Goring, Frank, Speer, and other high-ranking Nazis were once tried.
During the trials the original room was transformed for logistical reasons. The magnitude of this trial meant that they needed to ensure more security. Curtains had to be drawn and additional lights needed to be installed. Other changes were made. We managed a few pictures.
There was an area upstairs, separate from the famed Room 600, where it discusses the trial and has video footage of everything. I was most fascinated by Robert H. Jackson, the USA's chief prosecutor during the trial, who opened the proceedings with a very good opening remark. He stated,
Certainly a very important speech during a very important time. It was definitely the first trial of this magnitude. Never had anything like the Nuremberg trials ever happened before.
Finally, we ended the tour, and we proceeded back into town for some lunch, where we went to the "Original Bratwursthaus in Nürnberg." Not sure if it was true, but it's a good marketing ploy. There seems to be less English that's for sure. That certainly was evident when my mom ordered some small bratwursts with some 'side,' which could have been french fries and/or salad. It turned out to be a side of horseradish. Good nonetheless--for me, not her. Delicious with a "pils." They call it "pils" here, and not "pilsner." That is the word I am most used to!
Tomorrow Munich!
Off to go back into town for dinner! Until then, kümmern, und halten Sie lächelt, weil das ist das einzige, was zählt.
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